Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
